Food review: Cat & Fiddle pub in Hinton, Christchurch

THE Christmas vibes were in full swing during my recent visit to a Christchurch country pub, with a festive craft fair, live music, crackling log fires and twinkling lights.

Many rural pubs will likely be on the quiet side of a Monday evening, but this was a Monday with a difference – The Cat & Fiddle was spreading some seasonal cheer with a light switch-on event and Christmas market.

The place was a hive of activity when I arrived, with restaurant-goers enjoying an evening meal, jazz musicians playing beautifully in the bar area, and shoppers perusing the abundant stalls selling the most tempting of treats – chocolates handcrafted in the New Forest, flavourful pickles, stunning jewellery made from recycled silver and sea glass, ocean wave resin chopping boards, and unique artworks.

It was fascinating to hear the stories of these local producers, who were so passionate about what they do, and after a spot of Christmas shopping we were seated at a table beside a roaring open fire.

The pub had firmly succeeded in bringing the Christmas magic to life – there were glittering trees, illuminated reindeers, glowing stars, vibrant nutcrackers, fireplaces garlands, and plenty of tinsel.

Feeling well and truly in the Christmas spirit, it was time to eat, and starting the season as I mean to go on I opted for some delightfully indulgent dishes – first up was a honey and truffle baked camembert served with toasted artisan bread and a sweet and colourful chutney, which I shared with my friend.

We were quick to dive in, and the golden, molten creaminess, balanced with a little floral sweetness and a hint of earthy lushness from the truffle, was intense and satisfying.

My main dish was beef rib bourguignon in a red wine, mushroom and pancetta sauce, with spring onion mash, roast carrots and tenderstem broccoli.

I cannot remember the last time I tasted beef this good – served on the bone but so tender it fell off with the gentlest of nudges, the meat had a depth of flavour that really set it apart. Beautifully marbled with fat and boasting a caramelised crust, it had the juiciest texture.

The sauce was rich and aromatic, soaked up by the creamiest and most comforting mash. The vegetables, adding colour and freshness to the plate, were cooked perfectly, retaining texture and bite.

A supremely hearty dish, made even better by a glass of bold-flavoured Rioja, this is sure to satisfy on a cold winter’s evening.

My friend had opted for the seared fillets of sea bass with crispy baby potatoes, broad beans, peas and tenderstem broccoli in a creamy white wine and king prawn sauce.

It came piled high on the plate, and looked so colourful, fresh and nutritious, and by all accounts was absolutely delicious.

Finishing the evening in style, dessert was mango and passionfruit pavlova – a stunning assemblance of pink marbled meringue, thick and luscious whipped cream and tropical fruit, complete with a sprinkling of delicate edible flowers and white chocolate buttons.

This classic meringue showstopper certainly had the wow factor and was almost too pretty to eat.

An explosion of tastes and textures, this dessert would satisfy any sweet craving – my only criticism would be that the meringue, while gorgeous looking, lacked that wonderful chewy marshmallow centre.

My friend chose lemon tart with a blueberry and Prosecco compote and fresh cream. She’s more of a savoury girl, so this dessert, with plenty of acidity offsetting the sugar, was perfect for her.

Landlady Barbara Smith, who took over the pub earlier this year, has been making it her mission to breathe new life into the establishment – I can attest this to be true.

The Cat & Fiddle, which has this week launched its Christmas menu, offers a warm welcome, a homely atmosphere, and delicious hearty food.

To book a table, visit https://bit.ly/4gjVkiX or call 01425 276050.

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