Food review: Silver Hind, Sway

ONCE a former nurses’ cottage, and later a restaurant with rooms, Sway’s Silver Hind pub is now forging a reputation for superb quality, locally sourced food and a warm welcome.

Saved from demolition four years ago by a trio of former customers, the village centre pub has since become a focal point of the community, with regular quiz nights and special events.

For its owners Garratt ‘Tup’ Wickham, Ian Allen and Mark Lanning, food is high on the agenda, with an emphasis on serving top-quality homemade meals created with fresh and often locally sourced produce.

The kitchen team is led by brothers Dan and Matt Pestell, who have created a mouth-watering menu showcasing British classics and French cuisine, with Asian influences coming through. Sunday roasts are popular, with an extensive range of two and three-course options, priced from £20.

Well-loved in Sway, the pub hosts regular special events including a forthcoming fine dining evening, which is already sold out. However, there are still some tables available for its special Valentine’s Day menu.

On our arrival we were greeted warmly and shown to our table in the spacious and well-lit dining area, where our friendly server Leia introduced the menu. Visiting on a Friday evening, the spacious dining area was busy with a mix of families, couples and groups of friends all soaking up the relaxed atmosphere.

Tempted by the delicious sounding starter options, I initially considered the twice- baked Winchester soufflé with locally sourced micro greens, parmesan and rosemary biscotti (£9), but eventually settled on the fricassee of mushrooms with garlic and cream on sourdough toast with a poached egg (£8.50).

Cooked in a rich and creamy sauce, the earthy flavours of the mushrooms were perfectly complemented by the salty flaked parmesan and a perfectly poached egg. Served on crispy sourdough and dressed with pea shoots, the generously sized dish was incredibly satisfying and beautifully presented.

My husband opted for a classic prawn cocktail with little gem lettuce and Isle of Wight tomato served with a generous hunk of freshly baked baguette. This quintessentially British starter was executed to perfection, combining vibrant salad and fresh tomato with a hefty serving of bite-sized prawns. The Marie Rose sauce, garnished with paprika, delivered just the right kick.

When it came to selecting a main course, we were spoilt for choice with a well-balanced range from the main menu and specials, many of which featured locally sourced meat and fish.

Pub classics included honey glazed ham, egg and chips, gourmet burgers, a homemade pie of the day, 8oz Hampshire sirloin steak and Ringwood Ale battered haddock with triple cooked chips, mushy peas and tartare sauce. French and Asian inspired dishes also featured.

After some deliberations, I choose a duck duo from the specials board featuring pan-roasted breast and a crispy duck leg bon-bon served with fondant potato, parsnip puree and crisps, and a rich cherry and port sauce.

The dish proved an excellent choice – delivering a satisfying blend of contrasting flavours and textures. The juicy roast duck breast was wonderfully tender and married well with the

richly sweet and decadent sauce, while the crispy breadcrumb-coated bon-bon revealed rich and flavoursome shredded leg meat.

Beautifully presented on a bed of vibrant Cavolo Nero, the dish also featured delightfully sweet parsnip crisps, which added another layer of flavour and texture.

My husband chose the slow cooked shin of beef bourguignon, with smoked bacon, mushrooms and baby onions in a rich red wine sauce. He described the beef as melt-in-the-mouth tender, with the smoked bacon, baby onions and mushrooms combining to create a rich, luxurious and comforting stew.

After two delicious courses, expectations were high for our puddings. We were presented with a choice of homemade dishes including crème brulee, panna cotta and various ice creams and sorbets.

I opted for sticky toffee pudding served warm with gooey sauce and vanilla ice cream, which proved a wonderful end to a delicious meal.

My husband selected a trio of mini desserts featuring homemade mango sorbet with a mango coulis, a coconut panna cotta, and a mini macaron. He particularly loved the combination of juicy mango and creamy and indulgent panna cotta.

With a wonderfully warm and cosy atmosphere, friendly and attentive staff, tasty and imaginative food showcasing superb local ingredients, it’s certainly worth a journey to Sway to experience the charming and hospitable Silver Hind pub.

• To be in to win a meal for two at the Silver Hind, pick up a copy of this week’s A&T and turn to page 20